Hello, I am looking to buy my first filament 3D printer. Any printer or printer brand you recommend and why? What 3D modeling software is usually used to design? Any tips are welcome! (my budget would be 200-300€) I would like to eventually get into resin printing as well.

  • ffhein@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    Sovol SV06 on sale for $219 seems to currently be the best cheap printer. It has all the features that Creality’s best designed printer (Ender 3 S1) has and it’s still $100 cheaper. In addition the SV06 has an all-metal hotend which allows you to print higher temp filaments, like PETG etc, but if you’re only going to print PLA that’s not necessary.

    Don’t trust anyone who recommends a brand when it comes to cheap Chinese printers :) Most of the companies have made both some OK models and some straight garbage models.

  • anderfrank@kbin.social
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    1 year ago

    I would go with an Ender 3 variant as they are very popular and community support for them will be plentiful. Also, spare parts will be easy to get. For 3D design, I would start with something simple like Tinkercad and then maybe move to OnShape or Fusion 360 (both are free for hobbyists)

  • Flaky_Fish69@kbin.social
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    1 year ago

    My advice is to get the best printer within your budget. Remember that printers usually have additional costs- especially the low-cost models like creality printers.

    Solid choices to look at are the Prusa mk4s, uktimakers are also a solid choice.

    I would suggest before getting a creality look for the number of upgrades catered to them- and then realize that’s because that’s what people generally find important to upgrade.

    They’re not always necessary (angle supports, for example) but in general, crealities will need new extruded gears and hot end, if it doesn’t come with ABL, then a bl touch (and probably a new board,). This is in addition to the printable upgrades (like part cooling ducts,).

    Generally anything in the price range of an ender 3 is going to need some love. Which, might have some arguments for as a learning curve… but that learning curve is not as gentle as with other printers. You might save a little, but you will out grow them quickly.

    Regardless, stay with it! My dad described 3d printers as feeling like it did with very early computers and his Commodore 64. (Aka very exciting.). Of you need help reach out - this is a great group, there’s also the prusa forums (and repository for stls,)

  • Mugmoor@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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    1 year ago

    If your budget allows snag yourself a Prusa. They’re very well made, and Jeff Prusa more or less invented the modern 3D Printer. Creality makes fine printers, but you’ll spend more time maintaining it than actually printing. I have an Ender 3 V2 and wish I had saved up to get a better printer. I don’t have any personal experience with other brands.

    You’ll need to use a CAD program to make models. TinkerCAD is a great free option. You’ll also need to “slice” that model up for printing using a slicer. I personally use PrusaSlicer, but there are others as well.

    If you’re asking these kinds of questions that tells me you’re brand new to all of this. I recommend checking out Thomas Salanderer, CNC Kitchen, and Teaching Tech on YouTube. They’re all great at explaining the minutiae of this hobby.

    Edit: Do yourself a huge favour and get a model with a self-levelling bed, or at the very least a bed-level probe.

  • cryball@sopuli.xyz
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    1 year ago

    I’ve been printing with my ender 3 for >200h now, and I’ve been happy with it. If possible get the Neo version. It has most of the features that people add to their printers later on, like auto bed leveling.

    The tinkering part that people talk about in regards to the ender 3 seems to be an artifact from non Neo versions, as those are missing auto bed leveling and as such require more fiddling to get printing well. Also the non neo printers had plastic tension arms that would break over time.

    So far my ender 3 neo has failed 2 prints, one when I originally configured the z-offset to be too high and the initial layer wouldn’t stick. Other time was some layer shifts due to me leaving the x axis belt too loose. In total I’ve spent maybe 3 hours fiddling with my printer and mostly it’s left alone, doing it’s thing.

  • cestvrai@lemm.ee
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    1 year ago

    I went with a Prusa Mini and I can recommend the brand albeit at a higher price point.

    From what I’ve heard from others the main pitfall for someone staring out is not getting an auto-bed levelling sensor.

    For slicing Prusa slicer is fantastic and you can get profiles for many printers.

    For print monitoring OctoPrint and OctoApp are my go to.

      • cestvrai@lemm.ee
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        1 year ago

        We’ll, I suppose control and monitoring.

        It’s a little server with a web ui (I run one on a raspberrypi) that you can load you gcode files and start prints from your pc or phone.

        Then you can keep an eye on the progress of your print with percent completion, time elaspsed/remaining, a gcode viewer and live camera feed.

        My current print:

  • rambos@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    3D modeling and 3D printing are 2 different hobies and both have one thing in common, THEY LEECH LOADS OF TIME 🤣 Just saying, it doesnt need to be bad, I like it! But if you are beginner maybe start with only one.

    Why first fdm, then resin? If you want resin printer just go that path. Resin is good for miniatures while filaments are better for mechanical properties and bigger size. Fdm is faster, but still extremely slow. For 20x20x20 cm model you need like 1 day or more to complete. Get something that supports klipper firmware, like ender (probably most cheap printers) and expect extra cost on upgrades.

    For 3D modeling software you can chose open source Blender if you want to create sculptures or art thingies. Blender can do much more, but for mechanical parts you need CAD. You can make simple objects in any free software, like fusion or freecad. If you want proper CAD get solidworks. Super expensive for home users unless you can get it for free somehow, but loads of guides everywhere since its kinda industry standard.

    I know you are looking for exact 3D printer models (hopefully others will cover that), but you might find this useful. GL

    • rug_burn@sh.itjust.works
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      1 year ago

      Why first fdm, then resin? If you want resin printer just go that path. Resin is good for miniatures while filaments are better for mechanical properties and bigger size. Fdm is faster, but still extremely slow. For 20x20x20 cm model you need like 1 day or more to complete. Get something that supports klipper firmware, like ender (probably most cheap printers) and expect extra cost on upgrades.

      ^this, verbatim. My advice is, think about what it is you want to print and go from there. If you’re going to try to make functional parts with the occasional “cute” gift for someone, chances are you’d want to go with FDM and Fusion 360, then it’s dealers choice on which slicer you prefer. Then think about what you’re using those parts for, and figure out what filament will be best for that part, whether it needs to sit in a hot car, for example, you’ll be looking at ABS / ASA versus something that sits inside on a desk and doesn’t need to support weight, where PLA is your cheap and generally easiest filament to use. Then, research what printers are capable of printing said filament, as not all 3d printers can handle higher temps, need enclosures, etc.

      On the other hand, if you’re going to make tabletop miniatures or need the properties of resin for whatever reason, you’ll want to go with resin, and modeling software such as Blender as others have suggested

    • eatisaiy@lemmy.worldOP
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      1 year ago

      Thanks for the response! My understanding is that the procedure/handling of resin is more complicated and that it is simpler to start with fdm.

      • rambos@lemmy.world
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        1 year ago

        Its easier to learn snowboarding for people who know how to ski. It doesnt mean every snowboarder should start skiing first, but its not wrong if you enjoy it.

        Its more about what you want to print and where. If you want to print tiny, high detail miniatures your FDM will suck. If you want to print in your living room better get FDM and print PLA, cuz for resin you need proper ventilation.

        Have fun!

  • Gormadt@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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    1 year ago

    I’ll stick to the software side of things as I haven’t been in the market for an FDM printer in a couple years.

    Software wise Blender is absolutely amazing, especially being free. I’d recommend it for any modeling that isn’t a mechanical design.

    Fusion 360 is also amazing, but mostly for practical physical designs. Get the hobbyist license and it’s free. You’ll thank yourself later for diving into Fusion 360 earlier rather than later.

    You can use TinkerCad for simple little designs if you’d like but it’s really limited.

    • dream_weasel@sh.itjust.works
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      1 year ago

      Can you differentiate between practical physical designs vs non-mechanical designs? Is it just whether or not there are moving parts?

      • Gormadt@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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        1 year ago

        Basically is it art or is it a functional item/replacement parts.

        Moving parts can be pretty easy to make depending on movement in either program.

        • dream_weasel@sh.itjust.works
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          1 year ago

          So you’re saying if I’m making toolbox parts I probably just want to start with fusion 360? Never used either tool.