Only if you’re logged in as an Administrator though. A “standard” user account can’t access WiFi passwords on Windows.

I’m not too knowledgeable on that topic, but doesn’t Linux store WiFi or smb-share passwords in some keychain?

Edit: missread your comment a little, I’m guessing you meant that there are multiple different keychains on Linux

Hm there must be some other problem on your end then. Doing a clean reinstall of Yuzu EA 4176 and then using the newest keys, firmware and update for Mario Kart 8 Deluxe should pretty certainly fix it.

It runs great for me on Steamdeck, with the Yuzu EA 4176 AppImage, firmware/keys version 18.0.0, MK8 Deluxe NSP + Update 3.0.1 + DLC.

I just read the full article, and I’m not even that concerned about storing the key in plaintext. I find the possibility of copying the files, and then being able to run the same session simultaneously a lot scarier.

As the article states, currently all processes are able to read the file which contains the key. Instead, you could store the key in the macOS Keychain (and Linux/Windows equivalents), which AFAIK is a list of all sorts of sensitive data (think WiFi passwords etc.), encrypted with your user password. I believe the Keychain also only let’s certain processes see certain entries, so the Signal Desktop App could see only its own encryption key, whereas for example iMessage would only see the iMessage encryption key.

The latest yuzu version has a bug with Mariokart multiplayer (I believe this is the one that you’re referencing). It can easily be avoided by pressing L+R on the first screen with any controller that isn’t Player 1.

I believe Blurays are still a very good medium for long term data storage, like a cold offsite backup.

Same! I’m lowkey tempted to get a fancy one now, but deep down I know it just isn’t worth it.

Damn even though you explained the abbreviation I still read it as Wife Approval Factor for a second and was very confused

If you care to minimize Standby power “comfortably”, usually libraries or power companies will let you borrow an AC Power Meter free of charge.

You can use that to inspect your various devices Standby Power. For example I have an amplifier that pulls nearly 15W in standby, since finding out it lives on a smart plug.

However my TV pulls less than 1W, and at that point I prefer the convenience of just being able to use the remote to turn it on.

(Also keep in mind with the smart plug solution that the plug itself will pull a little bit of power too, this will pretty much always be <1W though.)

In that case you can try adding before:2023 or similar to your search

You could try getting a Raspberry Pi Zero together with some kind of SPDIF output card, but that will probably go over $30.

I have no idea what pricing is like, but you could possibly try getting a used Logitech Squeezebox player.

If you’re desperate to stay on the cheap and don’t mind BT quality, you could also install Snapcast on an old phone, enable the Snapcast player provider and then use the phone to connect to your speakers over Bluetooth.

I absolutely loved Splatoon 2, especially the DLC. It’s such a shame that you have to pay for online battles though.

Here’s a similar question, my answer should also be relevant to your question.

As for Switch emulation, yuzu still runs great, with many playable games on the deck. If you don’t have the AppImage or Flatpak already, make sure to get it from a reputable source.

Edit: Or, if you’re lazy, just use Ryujinx (also available in EmuDeck).

While I do mostly agree with your statement, it’s incredibly annoying when I type in a local IP for my router or server and it automatically gets turned into https.

Thanks for all your research, but due to battery drain and the cost of the screen (and me being 2/2 in terms of opening phones and breaking screens), I’m either going to keep the phone or sell it and try buying a “normal” Pixel 6.

Yeah I found that link too, Thanks, but that’s not the case here (I did also run the tool like 3 times).

This tool will only work if the fingerprint sensor shows up in settings and actively tells you it has to be recalibrated (neither was the case for me).

I’ve actually only used it with Graphene OS. I even tried factory resetting it and then just leaving it. That still led to super high battery drain, so I guess that screen is definitely acting up.

(I’m in no way blaming Graphene OS, my friend with a “normal” Pixel 6 says he has amazing battery life with it).

I really like the convenience and also added security. For example, while using my half broken Pixel, I noticed two things:

1. Unlocking with two hands and a pin is pretty fast, but with one hand it takes forever compared to fingerprint.
2. For “secure” apps (Aegis, Bitwarden, Banking apps), it’s quite nice to use my fingerprint instead of master passwords. The odds of someone managing to get in there by spoofing my fingerprint or something are practically 0, whereas when I would just use the same pin as my phone it would be stupidly insecure. Even when using a separate 6 character pin, it’s still very easy for bystanders to watch and see the pin (and it’s slower and less convenient).

Also in terms of general security I’m perfectly fine with it, as my actual fingerprint never leaves the phone (AFAIK not even the sensor but don’t quote me on that) and I can just purposefully scan the wrong finger or a dirty finger 5 times and it’s locked.

That is also the reason why I absolutely hate face unlock, I’ve quite often just taken a random friends phone, held it up to their face for 1 second, and I was in. That stuff is scary.

I can relate, with every update I’m like “Wow this is going to optimize my setup so much” and then I just don’t change anything lol